15/07: Moscow vs St Petersburg
I recently got a text message from a Moscow-residing American friend on his first trip to St Petersburg: "The streets are clean, there are no passed out vagrants anywhere and the woman at the Produkty smiled at me! What kind of strange alternate reality have I stumbled into?" Bizarro Moscow: it seems to be a common impression. Every time I go to St Petersburg I start making plans to relocate there from Moscow. The relative serenity, beauty and ease of life is such a refreshing change from the unwelcoming, over-populated and ugly Moscow. But on my most recent visit to St Petersburg "ya byl v shoke". It has become even more foreigner friendly than I remembered...
Upon arrival I picked up a copy of the tourist information booklet from the tourist information office (the mere fact that either of these things exist is a vast improvement on Moscow). And here I saw that the Government of St Petersburg has launched an initiative to make Russia's northern capital one of the top 5 most visited cities in Europe. They're certainly going the right way about it. Bed & breakfasts and mini-hotels abound in the center of the city, in stark contrast to Moscow's complete lack of affordable accommodation. Almost all businesses in the center employ English-speaking staff and the service is good. Prices are reasonable, the buildings are well-kept and the streets are clean. I even felt guilty about flicking my cigarette butts on the sidewalk... in Russia!
But most impressive was the new Tourist Angel's Service that has been launched. Basically, they've sent a large number of young, attractive girls out onto the streets to stand around looking pretty and give advice or help to anyone who needs it. Nowhere in Western Europe have I seen such a service, at least not one as visible as the Angels are. While Russia's oppressive visa regime might hinder St Petersburg's efforts to reach their tourist goal, they really are doing all they can to get everything right.
And on my final day in St Petersburg, while I sat eating reasonably priced food, served by efficient waiters on the restaurant's summer terrace on the enchanting Nevsky Prospekt, I once again lamented my decision to choose to live in Moscow. But then my traveling companion (who was speaking purely from the experience of a tourist) started commenting on how much nicer St Petersburg is than Moscow and I became suddenly defensive. It's not very often that I'll expound the virtues of Moscow but as I did so I discovered the reason that I never have made that move to St Petersburg.
I would miss the energy of the Moscow. I would miss the fast pace of life and the opportunities and possibilities of the capital. I would hate having to wait 6-7 minutes for the metro. I would be constantly irritated by the people strolling along the streets at a snail's pace and blocking my path more than I'm irritated by being shouldered and shoved out of the way in Moscow. And, after the charms of St Petersburg began to wear off, I would probably even miss the unpredictability, the filth and the general difficulties of Moscow life. And, ultimately, I'd probably miss the adventure that I came to Russia for.
People always tell me that Moscow isn't the real Russia. I probably haven't traveled the country extensively enough to judge. But I know I would be far more inclined to make that comment about St Petersburg than Moscow.
Upon arrival I picked up a copy of the tourist information booklet from the tourist information office (the mere fact that either of these things exist is a vast improvement on Moscow). And here I saw that the Government of St Petersburg has launched an initiative to make Russia's northern capital one of the top 5 most visited cities in Europe. They're certainly going the right way about it. Bed & breakfasts and mini-hotels abound in the center of the city, in stark contrast to Moscow's complete lack of affordable accommodation. Almost all businesses in the center employ English-speaking staff and the service is good. Prices are reasonable, the buildings are well-kept and the streets are clean. I even felt guilty about flicking my cigarette butts on the sidewalk... in Russia!
But most impressive was the new Tourist Angel's Service that has been launched. Basically, they've sent a large number of young, attractive girls out onto the streets to stand around looking pretty and give advice or help to anyone who needs it. Nowhere in Western Europe have I seen such a service, at least not one as visible as the Angels are. While Russia's oppressive visa regime might hinder St Petersburg's efforts to reach their tourist goal, they really are doing all they can to get everything right.
And on my final day in St Petersburg, while I sat eating reasonably priced food, served by efficient waiters on the restaurant's summer terrace on the enchanting Nevsky Prospekt, I once again lamented my decision to choose to live in Moscow. But then my traveling companion (who was speaking purely from the experience of a tourist) started commenting on how much nicer St Petersburg is than Moscow and I became suddenly defensive. It's not very often that I'll expound the virtues of Moscow but as I did so I discovered the reason that I never have made that move to St Petersburg.
I would miss the energy of the Moscow. I would miss the fast pace of life and the opportunities and possibilities of the capital. I would hate having to wait 6-7 minutes for the metro. I would be constantly irritated by the people strolling along the streets at a snail's pace and blocking my path more than I'm irritated by being shouldered and shoved out of the way in Moscow. And, after the charms of St Petersburg began to wear off, I would probably even miss the unpredictability, the filth and the general difficulties of Moscow life. And, ultimately, I'd probably miss the adventure that I came to Russia for.
People always tell me that Moscow isn't the real Russia. I probably haven't traveled the country extensively enough to judge. But I know I would be far more inclined to make that comment about St Petersburg than Moscow.
Del.Icio.Us
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Dmitry wrote:
Also, if you go to the outskirts of St. Petersburg -- everything changes... Concrete blocks and dirty streets, queues and overcrowded public transport. The center of the city is great, but it's a bit fake.